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blog #1 -- janvier
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blog #11 -- novembre
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 blog #11 -- novembre 2007


In general,I would categorize the signals of winter's arrival to Paris into two distinct, but equally important categories.  First we have the external factors, namely those that occur outside of our apartment at rue Cassette:  the appearance of fashionable scarves paired with leggings and knee-high boots, the mounting presence of Christmas lights, the 5 total hours of daily natural light, and yes, the very inner particles of my nose freezing solid on the walk to the Metro (all of the above tempting us to go for a 2nd Sicily trip!). 

The second category of signals are those internal factors, basically rituals established by Shannon and myself that happen within the premises at rue Cassette: Specifically, 1) "the changing of the wardrobe" that says goodbye to a coloforful rainbow of polo shirts to be replaced by an equally colorful spectrum of J.crew sweaters, 2) the "turning of the crank" on the heat radiator, which turns our apartmentment into a blazing inferno (precisely at Shannon's specification) - which ironically causes us (and any guests) to wear less clothes than we would ever consider in Jamaica and 3) our cat Ole looks to find increasingly "never been discovered" pockets of cozy winter comfort in the apartment - on top of the dryer, inside my computer desk...and yes, he even attempted to join a running shower yesterday. 

But this is Paris, baby!  And in the winter this city looks as good as it feels cold - day or night.  So without any hesitation, voila!  I present you with my wife's brilliant photographic representation of this scenic splendor as the opening pics for this month's blog.

I call this one Novembre, je t'aime: le jour (featuring our dear Eify...we must try summiting that thing one day...)

 

And then we have Novembre, je t'aime part deux: la nuit (with an emphasis on the bright shiny objects of our very own 6th arrondissment, and again Eify avec laser beam).

And I don't know about you, but when this time of year comes around the way we appreciate all of this naural beauty is to...well, be indoors, typically with friends or family...and more typically with a lot of food in our bellies.   

Small world moment!  Vive les expats!  So turns out that the small, Redmond, Washington-based software company that I work for sends more than one lucky couple to Europe each year.  And we know the other one!  Naomi and Jeff York...where do the coincidences begin, and when will they end!??  Jeff and Shannon living across the street from each other at UW, Naomi and myself working together at Microsoft, both being proud residents of Greenlake area, both taking international assignments in Europe during the same year, both having an un-ending passion for Nutella (okay, that's just me)...I could go on.  But the most relevant one in this moment is a common appreciation for Portland-based group Pink Martini, who played an outstanding show in Paris.  Naomi and Jeff came from their new home outside of Lisbon, Portugal, to see the concert...and here we are, the four of us, outside of the big event:

And here is a snapshot of the band in acton -what seems like 20 of them when they are all on the stage at the same time.  For anyone who has listened to Pink Martini's Sympathique album (highly recommended), you will know that most of the songs are elegantly performed in french, and even beyond that - capturing essential realities of french culture (translation for one song: "I don't want to work, I don't want to eat lunch...I just want to smoke"). The comforting realization of this concert was that, in fact, it is very possible to sing in french - without necssarily being able to speak it!  As we listened to the band members attempt to introduce their songs in french - Shannon and I looked at each other saying "we can actually understand this stuff!!"...this gives me tremendous optimism for becoming a french pop-star afterall... 

Small world moment #2!  Encore expats!  If there is one type of person that we can connect with here, it is the Libby and Alexis Noal type.  Libby (right): a Seattle-area native with an intense passion for la vie francaise.  Alexis (middle): a French dude that loves blogging, reading, and an honest debate about ipod vs. zune.  I don't know if I could even explain the series of "friends of a friends" connection that got us together, but whatever it was - it worked!  Here we find them at a familiar rue Cassette dinner table, with Libby about a month prior to giving birth.  And as of this week we are happy to report that they recently delivered a healthy baby boy!

The Newlyweds!  But enough of all of this expat-talk!  Here we find ourselves over steak, frites, and a bottle of red with Shwu and Bernard (you may recognize them from the mai and juillet blogs) at a neighborhood café.  The reason?  These two lovebirds just tied the knot in October and it was time to celebrate, and counsel them based on all of the wisdom from our years and years of seasoned marriage (in french, of course...)


Okay, but November wasn't all indoor concerts and eating.  We did make an exceptional road-trip to visit our good friends in the Champagne capital of the world - Reims (randomly kind of rhymes with France - don't ask). 

But on the way Eastbound, Shannon and I were sucked into quite possibly the most disturbingly un-French experience in our history of Frence experiences.  The culprit is something known as La Vallée Village, aka American suburban shopping, recreated (and flourishing mind you) in France.  As I sat with my Starbucks Crème Brûlée Latte outside of the Vans skateboarding shoes store, I started wondering, if in fact, I was really in France afterall...

But while the shops had people, the connected town seemed...well, slightly less bustling.  Sure, there were perfectly crafted French-style houses, but...no French people.  Very.....creepy...must go....drink...champagne...


And so we did!  Here we are, shortly after arriving in Reims at the home of friends Hicham (aka "Hitch") and Emily (aka "Heathrow").  After the suburban scare described above, steak and frites and a bottle of red seemed to be just the right treatment (is anyone seeing a trend on this month's blog?)...


But anyone who has spent a week with me at Lake Chelan (okay, I realize this is not all of you) knows that the only way for me to reach true mental equilibrium after a meal is through a rare 1980's board game of "high stakes and high rises" known as Hotels.  As luck would have it, I found the British version at Hitch and Emily's place (strangely, called singular “Hotel”) and immediately started assembling the pieces.  Here I am pictured holding the Fujiyama hotel, and FYI that building is a poor investment for future gamers...


After all of that action there was still time for sunset exploration of their lovely town - shopping streets, cathedrals, the whole nine yards.  Here you find Hitch and I, bundled up in front one of the original buildings that produced the liquid-gold bubbly... 

 


And of course, the must-have conclusion to any good day trip - a café noisette featuing Shannon and Emily - the two dedicated (and from the looks of it, happy) ISP teachers.

 
 


It's Chaos!  It's an Outrage!  It's...Transportation Strike!

Now, let's get one thing straight - we love our Metro.  Someday I will look back at memories of the purple line 4, and our home base Metro stop of Saint Sulpice as the pinnacle of the various transportation mediums.  I wouldn't be suprised if I actually framed this beauty as a token of appreciation:     

But when, one day in November, the entire transportation work force of Paris determines their retirement plan is insufficient enough for them to show up to work...well that's the time to say: "Houston, we have a problem."  I'll discuss the various joys and impacts:

Impact #1:  When waiting for the intermittant metro (think ratio of 1 in 10), the platform turns into survival of the fittest mode, featuring a crowd pushing together into packs of sausages around the opening metro doors - shoving their way in like cattle before letting the poor hopeful metro exiters out.  Result - "Oh, did you miss your stop?" and a whole lot of excessive grunting...

Impact #2:  People would say I'm pretty cool with the whole "touchy / feely" deal, but honestly - not with french strangers, pressed up against the glass, giving me a close examination of an armpit or ungroomed neckhair.  Result: Generally, just not pleasant sights or odors...


Impact #3:  Since Emily's daily train from Champagne country was also on the fritz, she claimed a bed at rue Cassette with us during the strike (Literally, she requests that others ask permission to use "Emily's Bed").  Result: Ole gets more attention than he deserves (pictured below), and Shannon gets a walking partner to work (Discussing the impacts of this extra walking could make an entire blog of itself).  Secondary result:  Emily encourages us to say c'est la vie and enjoy a glass of this year's newly released Beaujolais Nouveau...and a short 10 days later, the misery came to an end.  That's what friends are for :)

Family Segment!  As I recall way back when I lived in the US, November represented not just friends and good food, but something about families as well.  And after not one, but two seperate family visits last month - I can say with confidence that families are something to be thankful for!

First up:  Herr Doctor Professor Johnson, stopping in during work travels for his second Paris checkup since we first moved in.  In doing so, Dad joined the elite list of "return rue Cassette visitors", and learned that he could actually spend time enjoying our fine city instead of installing mirrors and assembling furniture.  That got him to smile for a classic father/son pose:

 

And my-oh-my there were soufflés!  Think cheese soufflés, meat soufflés, mushroom soufflés, chocolate and salted caramel soufflés.  Let's just say if it was puffy, and light, and delicious...we tried it all!  Here we are pictured after the soufflé victory at nearby La Cigale Recamier.

 

All of this good eating and adventuring through Paris' more scenic avenues made my dad a pretty happy customer - and with a slightly more colorful scarf (and a removal of the North Face backpack) we may even get him to pass as a Parisian local!

 

Thanksgiving does exist in Paris!  Well, not so much in the traditional pilgrim sense, but in my book if you have the key ingredients of 1) family and 2) gravy - it's pretty darn close.      


The first was fulfilled by none other than Shannon's sis Anne - who has pretty much set the bar (aka thrown down the gauntlet) for over-the-top Paris appreciation and dedication with an unprecedented THIRD visit to rue Cassette in one year!  Talk about a woman who knows the finer points of the city - the right macaron flavors at Laduree, the right crispness of Baguette Tradition at our Boulangerie, the right running routes in Jardin du Luxembourg, and the right petit boutiques for shopping in Le Marais.  Future visitors - take notes from the lady on the right:  


But regarding the second key ingredient of Thanksgiving...gravy doesn't cook itself.  So these ladies hit the kitchen in tag-team fashion and, yes, even appeared to enjoy doing so...

These full requirements being met, the outcome was tasty, peaceful, candlelit, and...definitely something to be thankful for:

And let's just say that Anne also was able to experience a slightly less traditional dining experience in Paris, as Shannon and I celebrated our own personal Roosevelt Roughrider 10-year reunion on the Champs-Elysee while the main event was going on in Sea-town...Not so sure about the silver crocodile-skin chairs, but the food and service brought smiles...

And shortly thereafter, with her suitcase filled well above the airline weight limit, Anne said goodbye after a memorable, yet alternative T-giving...knowing very well that the Paris fever will bring her back for visit #4 faster than you can say "J'adore la France!"


 

Which left Shannon and I to sit back, relax, and hit the play button on our eclectic Christmas playlist ranging from Elvis Presley, to my personal favorite: N'SYNC's "O Holy Night"...Note to self: Stop giving blog readers too much information...  

If we don't see you in December, no need to worry:  you'll have all the more reason to experience the action-packed holiday adventures, succinctly summarized on the next version of le blog.  In the meantime, we wish you a Joyeux Noël!